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DNA plays
critical role in rejuvenating aging skin. by Verretta
Deorosan, M.D.
A graduate of UCLA School of
Medicine, Dr. Verretta Deorosan is board certified by the American
Board of Internal Medicine. She is a primary care physician with two
practices in Los Angeles, California. Her emphasis is on adult and
geriatric medicine with a broad-spectrum alternative/complementary
approach.
A
new understanding of what causes skin aging, plus the development of
substances that inhibit or mitigate premature skin aging, can result
in profound changes in the appearance of mature skin.
Aging gives and takes away: It gives our skin unwanted free
radical damage, and it takes away healthy collagen, making skin
stiff and inflexible and causing wrinkled, dried-out skin. But now,
researchers can offer new ingredients to help change this look. One
of the most promising of these “cosmeceutical” ingredients is called
Matrixyl®. Indeed, the results of early research
on its stunning effects on wrinkled skin caused a stir at the 20th
World Congress of Dermatology in Paris (Matrixyl®
1999).
Significant,
Progressive Changes
A six-month study revealed that Matrixyl® temporarily
produces “a highly significant reduction in the deep and moderate
wrinkles,” the researchers determined. In fact, they documented
changes as high as 68% (Matrixyl® 1999). The research
left no doubt: Women who had used Matrixyl® throughout
the study experienced dramatic results. Plus the longer they used
it, the better they looked.
Matrixyl® came into being through the work of two
branches of dermatological research: the search for substances that
accelerate recovery from skin wounds and investigations into what
causes wrinkles. When skin is wounded, tiny cells called
fibroblasts change their characteristics (kind of like
changing into their work clothes) and help to repair the damaged
tissue and assist in the process of forming new tissue. Part of
their job is to manufacture new collagen, an important
component of connective tissue.
Fibroblasts never completely lose this ability to create more
collagen, even in mature skin. After all, even older people’s wounds
heal eventually. But as you grow older, your collagen levels
dwindle, and your taut, dewy skin dries out and crinkles. “Wrinkles
are nothing more or less than the depletion of collagen in the
skin,” according to Robert Garonne, Professor of Cell Biology at
Lyon University in France.
Acting
Like Old Tissue
Why do skin fibroblasts slow down their collagen production as we
get older, even though they can still produce it? Scientists found
out why: Fibroblasts in aged tissue start acting old themselves.
But—and this is a big but—when they are isolated from aged tissue in
the lab and exposed to the same stimulating factors the body uses to
kick them into gear, skin fibroblasts once again start producing
significant quantities of collagen (Matrixyl® 1999).
With this knowledge, cosmetic scientists started exploring ways
to stimulate fibroblasts in living skin on living people, not just
in Petri dishes in the laboratory. Using the most advanced cosmetic
technology, they developed a five-sided molecule called palmitoyl
pentapeptide. This molecular “suitcase” is small enough to be
absorbed into skin tissue and uses a delivery system that
specifically targets skin cells—providing door-to-door delivery, as
it were. The pentapeptide was then loaded with a precious cargo for
skin cells: the stimulating factors that get fibroblasts pumping out
collagen, plus a unique agent called Endonucleine™
(Laboratoires Serobiologiques 1989).
Skin
Needs Hydration
Skin needs water—a great deal of it—to keep its cells plump and
saturated with moisture. These moisture-saturated skin cells help
your skin look firm and taut. As aging skin dries out and loses its
ability to stay hydrated, your skin turns from looking like peaches
to prunes.
Endonucleine™ helps skin maintain its hydrating ability by
supplying natural and synthetic versions of skin cells’ own genetic
material: the nucleic acids DNA and RNA. DNA carries the specific
information for the cell, including how to hydrate it, while RNA
transmits that information. By reconstituting the skin’s DNA and
RNA, Endonucleine™ has a pronounced hydrating and moisturizing
effect on the skin.
A
Classic Double-Blind Study
Matrixyl® wowed dermatologists at the Paris conference
with its demonstrated effects in women. The six-month, double-blind
study involved 35 women ages 34 to 72, all of whom had wrinkles
(skin experts call it “photodamaged skin”). The researchers set five
parameters: global area of wrinkles, density of furrows, volume of
wrinkles, mean depth of the main wrinkle, and roughness of skin.
Using sophisticated imaging techniques, including photometry and
computerized image analysis, they measured these five markers at the
beginning of the study and two months, four months, and six months
later.
The women were divided into two groups. The first group of 25
women put a cream containing Matrixyl® on one side of the
face and a placebo cream on the other. The other 10 put
Matrixyl® cream on one side and a commercial vitamin-C
cream on the other. None of the women knew which cream contained
what.
The researchers reported, “A highly significant reduction in the
deep and moderate wrinkles was obtained on the side treated with 3%
Matrixyl®. This reduction increased with time, and a
difference developed from the placebo, which never produced a
significant effect. The surface area occupied by deep wrinkles was
reduced by a mean of 68% over six months. The surface area occupied
by moderate wrinkles was reduced by a mean of 51% over six
months.”
Regarding the density of furrows, the researchers reported, “This
parameter takes into account the length of the deepest wrinkles;
their total sum relative to the area under analysis is used to
define the density per unit area. A very marked reduction in the
mean density was found for Matrixyl®, whereas the placebo
tended to have the opposite effect. The results produced by
Matrixyl® improved with time: -28% after two months, -31%
after four months, and -47% after six months.”
Big
Changes
The researchers also assessed the volume of wrinkles. To do this,
for each subject they selected one of the deepest wrinkles, then
measured its changes over time. As to their results, they reported
that the volume of the wrinkle “decreased with time, successively
being reduced by 7% (two months), 21% (four months), and 24% (six
months). The placebo continued to produce no effect.”
Matrixyl® also helped to reduce the roughness of the
skin, an effect that became visible after two months (-10%), which
intensified with time to reach -16% after six months.”
Concerning the depth of the main wrinkle, they reported, “This
determination is useful because it provides a good illustration of
the improvement obtained on the most severely affected area of skin.
It is therefore a rigorous criterion for evaluating the efficacy of
the product. The mean depth of the wrinkle decreased throughout the
treatment.”
Self-Evaluation of
Female Subjects
The women reported that Matrixyl® “produces lasting
moisturizing of the skin,” “makes the skin smoother,” “makes the
skin more supple,” and “reduces wrinkles and lines.” These and their
own results led the researchers to conclude that their study
demonstrates “the long-term anti-wrinkle activity of
Matrixyl®. The parameters used to compare the
Matrixyl® cream with the placebo cream were significant
throughout the treatment. These differences increased with time,
which indicates that the physiological activity of the peptide in
the skin was progressive.”
There you have it. We now have a golden opportunity to look as
good as we feel—and for far longer. After all, many of us have
reached another one of those irritating milestones: The clerk no
longer asks to see your ID when you buy that bottle of wine. He
doesn’t see how young at heart you are. All he sees are the years on
your face.
“Don’t deny your age. Defy it!” actress Melanie Griffith urges in
a popular TV ad. With Matrixyl® you can defy the
premature signs of aging, by reminding your skin cells what they’re
supposed to do: stay hydrated and produce collagen. It just took
21st-century technology to figure out how to do it, and now we all
can reap the benefits. I can hardly wait to tell my patients.
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Jan 10th, 2010 at 8:08 am
MATRIXYL are great!